Agreed about lower pressures. I weigh 147 pounds, and started out running about 55psi front 60psi rear on my 2020 Domane SLR with tubeless 700x32 Continental GP5000 (TL model until I have to change again, then it’s the TR version they’ve changed to.) I have been running them for at least a couple months or more at about 46psi rear and 49psi front, based on recommendations from an online site. I think it was the AXS/SRAM website calculator that I think is most reasonable in it’s recommendations, (which says recommendations are for their ZIPP wheels.) I like the fact that it lets you put in the internal width of the rim you are mounting on, which does make a real difference in tire shape and the impact of the pressure you run.
https://axs.sram.com/guides/tire/pressure
I did check a few other sites just now, trying to figure out which site I had used, and I have to say that the others I checked just now were RIDICULOUSLY TOO HIGH in their recommendations. Using my weight and tire size and type data, about 3 other sites came up with pressures that were about 20psi HIGHER than what I said I am running above. Even with the higher pressures I was running when I first got the Domane and 32mm wide tubeless tires on 25mm internal width rims, I was still nearly 10psi lower than these sites suggested just now.
The sites were Specialized and Silca.
I am about to set up a 2nd set of the same Bontrager Aeolus Pro 3V carbon wheels for the Domane to use it on more gravel roads than I have been doing with the 32mm width tires. The new ones will be 700x40mm Tufo Speedero and I suspect I can drop far into the low 30’s psi for those tires. (I hope!)
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Silica recommended tire pressures based on tubed tires. Subtract 10 PSI and i was good.
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Ah!!! The BEST day! Congratulations!
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Very nice. I love a stealth bike!
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I have been happy with my purchase. It was my first higher end bike. I have been pleasantly surprised by the difference in ride quality and the bike’s responsiveness and handling.
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It makes SUCH a difference aye! My brother told me I was wasting my money. He has commuted for YEARS (like over a decade) on literally a $400 supermarket bike that is truly horrific. Darn thing probably weighs 24kg and is clunky as anything. When I visited him earlier this year I put him on my high end custom gravel bike for a spin and he was utterly blown away and didn’t want to give it back 
You will find you ride more just because it is SO much nicer to ride a good bike! Enjoy chalking up the mileage. Such a great bike you have there, insanely versatile and rides like a dream
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That was a very mean thing to do to your brother…
100% agree that you will ride your bike more!
I finally bought a new MTB in 2016, a Trek Fuel EX 29 carbon 9.8.
Up to then, I was putting from 1200-1800 miles a year on the previous bike. (It was actually 2 of the same bike, because before the first one finally succumbed to a frame failure at a weld, I bought a nearly identical ancient frame only 1 year younger than the original '98 Klein Mantra 26" full suspension. I got less than 3 years use with that replacement before it also failed at a weld in the rear triangle, and I was FINALLY ready to join current bike technology in the 3rd Millenium AD.
With vastly more effective and efficient suspension and 29" wheels and tubeless tires at lower pressures, it was such a game-changer! I put over 3000 hard mountain trails miles on that first year with the bike, in addition to my road miles that were only a little more than MTB miles that year and the next, though they used to be about twice as many as trail miles.
Then in 2019, I followed suit with the road bike, and bought a Trek Domane SLR6, and my road riding went crazy. I generally approach or reach 8,000 miles a year now between road and MTB, but MTB is a really small piece of the pie now.
Where I live, peaceful road rides with mostly low traffic are relatively easy to achieve and easier on my aging body even if they do almost always require significant climbing elevation.
I still love the thrill and challenge of trails and try to stay in contact with it enough to keep my skills reasonably sharp, but it’s just a lot harder on the body.
Latest change has been adding another wheelset to my Domane and setting it up for gravel rides. That’s yet ANOTHER whole new world of miles and smiles! Definitely harder on the drivetrain, but it opens up a LOT more route options for combined gravel and pavement, and I did almost 300 miles in 2 weeks after getting those wheels set up by the last week of June.
It’s great for anyone to love whatever bike they have and just go ride it! But when the time comes that you can go to another level, whether it’s a different type of riding, or a nicer bike, or even more effective and comfortable riding clothes and gear, it’s really amazing how much it can spark your interest again and give you a renewed thrill in the chase! (Even if you’re not chasing anything but peace!)
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Love hearing this!!! I just switched out my 2.4" 29er tyres for 40mm 700Cs on my Wondercross just to make my life harder on the really rough stuff to challenge my bike handling skills. I also flipped the fork chip to give it a steeper rake for extra twitch. Goes like a rocket but I really have to pick my lines, which is what I wanted. Quite enjoying bombing a rigid drop bar down the rough MTB tracks and giving people a fright hahaha.
For drive train wear on gravel…switch to wax. Everything just falls off so no grinding. And for a carbon frame, add helicopter tape. I’ve absolutely trashed my carbon gravel frame despite the tape, hence why my new bike is Ti
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I put Shelter tape on my Domane downtube as soon as I got it. Already had it on my 9.8 Fuel EX 29 carbon MTB and have recovered the section at the BB area a second layer because it takes a thrashing. The tape makes a HUGE difference, IMO. So even before I was thinking about gravel rides, that Domane carbon HAD to be covered. Just did the lower face, not sides, which don’t really get hit. And it is SO easy to wipe clean.
I’m not a waxer, though. Set in my ways, and don’t want yet another time-eating maintenance chore to keep up with. I won’t say NEVER, but I will say it’s unlikely I’ll ever do more gravel than road, not likely even as much, so I can deal with the regular wash, dry, and relube that for me is so much faster with wet oil-based. And ridiculously lower cost.
Gravel is definitely a different animal in terms of grit, though. At least for what I ride, even mountain bike trails are nowhere near as hard on the drivetrain as far as grit. I don’t do many trails that are chewed up by horses, most are just fabulous, lightly traveled forest trails with a fair amount of either rock or semi-grassy surface. Generally, the wet lube I’ve used for years provides good protection, low friction, and is simple as can be to apply and ride.
I can see already that with gravel rides, it’ll be a wash after almost every ride, and reapply lube when dry, still not a terribly big deal, but I’m sure it doesn’t shed the grit like your wax does. I’m glad you’ve found the wax method to your liking, and I don’t mean to minimize it AT ALL. I just know I’m still content with my tried and true! 
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Yep best to stay what works for you. On a wet gravel ride, have one bidon with plain water so you can squirt off the worst off the filth at intervals
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As many have said, it depends on what you are looking for and your measurements. For example, I often raced on a 56 frame with a 150mm stem and long reach bars. Partly because I liked slack handling, partly I thought it was lighter, and also I have short femurs so didn’t want a big saddle layback. This was also when frames were built as a 56 and then the other sizes were just longer tubed versions. Nowadays frames seem to have different layups and thicknesses based on frame size. While I use a 58 for a gravel bike with 100mm stem and long trail is perfect for a mix of stability and agility. I’m 6’3" for reference. I’ve also gone for 57 with 130mm stem and found this a very happy balance on the road.
If you go smaller, bear in mind toe overlap on shoes, limitations on stem length/reach, the amount of seat post exposed (more exposed equals more flex for better or worse depending on what you want), bottle cage height. Best of course is always to test the bike out
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missed this before I replied! I hope you are enjoying your ride, a very smart looking bike!
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