wowzers people - dedicated trainer bikes, Kickr Bikes… I’m wiping tears of jealousy off my screen…
My road bike is currently in the trainer until she’s ready for outside rides. The other one doesn’t fit in the trainer:
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that’s what rollers are for man. C’mon!!
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This tends to be the result of N+1. After a while it becomes easier (and even cheaper) to simply buy a new bike with improved components than to keep trying to upgrade components on the existing bike.
Having written that it took a couple of years to build up to +1 for me …
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No kidding, this. It’s been a long time since I’ve built up a bike from scratch - was thinking of taking it on as a retirement present. I love the work, but pricing it out, sure makes you question whether it’s worth the effort compared to just buying a ride outright.
It is kinda nice to receive each component, unbox it, fondle it, and get to know it intimately as you lovingly assemble a new bike. That has value in its own right.
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@Saddlesaur oh i know, right? that big campy box full of little boxes?
So I have a bike I’ve been switching between road and turbo, mechanical gears, same cassette on the bike and the turbo, but it needs adjustment every time. Better off with a cheap frame (I’ve got a slightly damaged carbon one that it still fine for turbo) with a cheap groupset (old 11 ultegra) with a total cost of £300 which stays on the turbo all the time
Yeah. Best solution is a bike dedicated to the trainer. That’s what I have. However, when using one bike on the road and wheel-off trainer, or when swapping rear wheels on a bike, the lateral position of the cassettes can vary enough to require a tweak of the cable tension, if not also the limit screws. In most cases it’s something you can remember, like on the trainer turn cable tension 4 clicks CCW, and for the wheel turn it back 4 clicks CW. Another solution is to shim one of the cassettes to line up with the other. I worked at a bike shop and we often did this for triathletes who regularly changed between training wheels and race wheels.
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