How to avoid rear derailleur adjustment on KICKR?

Whenever I swap from wheel to KICKR, I have to suffer through rear derailleur adjustment.

How to avoid? Is it as simple as having matching rear cassettes?

I’ve got the stock KICKR cassette (11 speed, 11-28) and on the Roubaix wheel, a Shimano 105 11 speed 11-34. Would getting another Shimano 11-34 for the KICKR help fix this?

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Probably not but having a 34 on the Kickr might allow you to enjoy some things outside of SYSTM that would be a LOT harder without it.

I’m not a mechanic but there’s usually a couple of mm of difference from one wheel set to another so it makes sense to me that you’d need to make minor adjustments to dial things in. Granted, it’s a bit of a pain. My personal solution was to get a dedicated trainer bike (I got a GREAT deal from my LBS) which also means that the drive train will wear evenly.

I’ll make that a “certainly not”. And add “bummer.” My KICKR and wheel both have Shimano 105 10 speed 11/28s. I still need to do about a 3/4 turn adjustment when I switch back and forth. Not a big deal for me because of the n+1 bike thing, but sometimes I need to switch bikes around.

I’ve got identical cassettes on my trainer (not a Wahoo) and Mt bike wheel and have never had an indexing issue. Some trainers require an extra space on the hub to get the alignment t :ok_hand:

I use a spacer, but still need a slight adjustment. Without the spacer, no amount of adjustment would help. But with the spacer, there are still small alignment issues. Could be that my wheel was built a teeny bit off of center.

I have an extra 0.5mm spacer on the other trainer for the other bike. Worth trying and see if that makes a difference


When I had a 28-11 on my tire and a 25-11 on my Kickr Core there were always some weird shifting inconsistencies and jumps. When I switched my trainer to a 30-12 with a new chain and a new big ring those seemed to go away.

It’s hard to say, but you’re more likely to have less need for an adjustment if you have the same setup.


Wahoo should do trade-in credits. I’d gladly part with my KICKR if I could get the BIKE (and without going through the hassle of eBay).

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Not the cheapest option, but I solved it with a dedicated KICKR BIKE :slight_smile: . I recommend if you can afford it! For me it was 5 notches on the derailleur barrel adjuster between “road” and “trainer” mode on my bike.

A winter project/goal of mine is to build up an old steel frame as a “trainer/indoor” bike. :+1:t2:


Nice! Plus you can save weight since you won’t need brakes :slight_smile: it will make those climbing vids quicker too :wink:


Ha! You know, @Glen.Coutts , it legit NEVER occurred to me to not install brakes! :rofl: :joy: :rofl:


Just don’t forget that you don’t have them if you ever do decide to take Blue Steel out on the road :stuck_out_tongue:

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Mike Cotty never bothered installing a saddle either.


I am considering a cow bell.


:cow: :bell: :mountain:


Will you wear the cowbell or install it on your bike? I’m pretty sure my wife wouldn’t let me use a cowbell.

Well, FWIW, I guess I could tie it off to my Kickr Climb, so whenever the grade goes up, my cowbell would sound off.



Excellent idea! My wife definitely would not like it if I did that—but she doesn’t care if you do! Send pics.


What’s to consider? :wink:


Just how many, presumably? N+1?

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