Also @prenaud, in the forum, you can attach pictures by clicking on the little picture icon here, rather than uploading to Google first.
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Thanks for the great explanation about the power targets. I will definitely work on it in the next few days.
Oups! I’m also involved in the Fitbit forum where attaching pictures is often an issue for me. I just purchased a Charge 6 and the past 3 sessions, it takes about 15 minutes before I get an accurate reading. I know this is not the place for it, but I bet you’re curious to see. lol
Hum… An error occurred: Sorry, new users can only put one embedded media item in a post.
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So, you’re using the Charge as your HRM in SYSTM? DC Rainmaker suggests their Bluetooth broadcasting of HR data is, unreliable, at best. You might want to invest in a chest strap like a Polar H10 or Garmin. I’d recommend the wahoo Tickrs as I’ve had good luck with them myself but plenty of others complain about their short lives and problems. I use a Polar H10 myself cuz I got sorta interested in HRV tracking.
Edit: link to DC’s review Fitbit Charge 6 In-Depth Review | DC Rainmaker
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No, no. I’m using a chest sensor with Wahoo. I just get the app on my watch going to test the accuracy. I feel like I may need a replacement.
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So what chest sensor are u using atm?
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I’m using a Coospo. I know it’s not the best one, but I just retired and I can’t keep up with all the expenses… Pickleball paddles and balls, badminton racquets and shuttlecocks, bike sensors, tablet, paddleboard, … 
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I have a similar issue with the Charge 6, where it takes a little while to get an accurate reading at the start of a workout.
My main HRM is a Polar H10 chest strap, but I think some optical sensors (perhaps especially wrist-based?) may take a little while to “catch up” to your actual heart rate during exercise (as opposed to ambient conditions).
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@prenaud For consistent power readings be sure to inflate your tire to the same pressure each time. Also perform a 10 minutes warm-up ride to get the tire conditioned. Finally - if you have the version of the Fluid 2 that has the knob that clicks you are all set but if you have the lever, I would suggest swapping out with the click knob. Consistent pressure on the tire also helps with accurate power readings. Finally, when you are done with your workout, unscrew the knob from the tire to prolong its longevity. I had the Fluid 2 for a long time and it is a solid trainer.
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@JSampson Thanks for the suggestions. I have the lever kind. I googled “click knob for Fluid2”, but I couldn’t find anything. 
@prenaud Sorry - should have said Clutch Knob replacement:
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Great. I had seen this one. I’ll look into it. Thanks again.
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Morning! I received the Clutch Knob and it was easy to install. I find that the pressure on the tire is definitely greater than what I was doing with the lever kind. Quick question, I find that I have to use an easier gear than if I was riding outside. Is it just me? I inflate my tires at 100 PSI.
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@prenaud Possibly - it has been a while since I used the Fluid 2 but that sounds familiar.
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Yep. The roller indenting the rear tire creates a decent amount of rolling resistance on its own. That’s added to what the fluid resistance unit creates.
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Four the sound effect list, are we missing the sounds of laser goats and the roar of Fluffy? I swear I hear the thundering footsteps in my dreams.
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One note on EV and Hybrids (I own one) is that they are no fitted with a noise maker and all of them will eventually be fitted with one on the United States. Hybrids will activate when at low speed and only the electric motor is running.